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Hizzout |
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70's baby, early 80's child
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Reged: 02/05/04
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Posts: 4841
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Re: Due to my own stupidity, I almost drowned today, but was saved by an angel.
03/20/11 02:00 PM
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Damn glad you're back on dry land. The ocean is not to be messed with. Many people realize this too little too late.
Even waves that are 3 feet will knock you on your ass and pull you in/out.
I'm not saying the local you talked to was necessarily being malicious (although a lot of Hawaiians really do hate mainlanders, especially those on the north shore) but he was probably telling you the truth...he probably does surf there all the time without incident. He's probably also surfed for as long as he could walk so the spot you chose was probably not a big deal for him.
Surfing is really one of the hardest things to learn. It's nothing like skateboarding or snowboarding, and unless you stay closer to the beach, the margin for mistakes is pretty slim.
Glad you're ok haolie.
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Re: Due to my own stupidity, I almost drowned today, but was saved by an angel.
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