MAMEWorld Forums - The Loony Bin - Re: Real Garage update.

> 1. Ensure your roof is square. That means someone is getting up there with a skill
> saw to correct any errors. Adjustments to the sheathing need to be made at this
> point, or when tar paper is down. Your shingles need to overhang the sheathing about
> an inch, and the sheathing should overhang any fascia by a tiny bit too. If you
> haven't put up all the fascia trim, ensure you leave enough sheathing on there to
> overhang it.

Didn't you use metal drip edge? I let my shingles over hang this by about 3/8" IIRC.

>
> 2. A chalk line is your best friend, buy a good one. if no one is around to help you
> snap lines, you can put a nail into the sheathing to loop your line around, and snap
> as needed.

We got frustrated trying to snap a 66' chaulk line and used the drip edge as a starting point (it was pretty straight)

> 5. Buy good shingles. 25-35 year, and something thick. The longer it is between
> re-roofs...the better. Trust me on this. It's 150% worth the extra $5 a bundle. BTW,
> 3 bundles equal a square, which is 10'x10' of roof.

Agreed!
>
> 6. Good roofing guides will tell you to run a chalk line every 3-4 rows to ensure
> your lines are proper. I hate running more chalk than I need, cause I'm lazy. If you
> ensure your first line is straight, you can use a cheat stick to gauge lines as you
> go.
>
> To put down the first line, place your starter shingles on either side of the roof.
> Measure the desired overhang from the fascia board on each shingle. Once your two end
> shingles are the same, run a chalk line from one to the other. Follow that line with
> the rest of your starter shingles.
>
> To build your cheat stick, take a spare 1"x4" or 2"x4" and cut it to around 10" long.
> Next measure the amount of exposed shingle you'll have from one overlap to the next.
> (The amount of overlap should be specified on your shingle packaging as well.) Now
> measure down from the edge of your 10" board to that number, and draw a line. Take
> some scrap shingles and attach a bit of shingle at that line, leaving the amount of
> desired shingle overlap as exposed board. While you shingle, you can use this
> makeshift tool by placing it upside down, and line up the shingle line with the
> bottom of your last shingled row. Your next row of shingles should rest on the edge
> of your tool. Hard to describe, but easy to figure out the concept. Your lines should
> be dead on all the way up the roof.

About every 5-10 rows of shingles, I measured from the top of the roof down and made minor corrections as we went. The architectural shingles I used just so happened to have had notches right where the next row needed to lay. Also, a roofing hammer or roofing nailer has a built in adjustable gauge to set the shingles offset.

> 9. Have a guy on the ground making cuts and hauling shingles up the ladder. Make sure
> he's a tough one too. He may think he's getting the easy job...but in reality he'll
> be hurting worse than the roofers at the end of the day. A good ground crew can save
> a bunch of time with the menial crap that slows progress to a screeching halt
> otherwise.

Fuck that, pay to have the shingles delivered to the rooftop!