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italieAdministrator
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If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's....
#275162 - 02/05/12 12:07 AM


...best to stay away from me for about a week.


That is all.



redk9258
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: italie]
#275163 - 02/05/12 12:11 AM


Whatcha wurkin on?



italieAdministrator
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: redk9258]
#275167 - 02/05/12 02:11 AM Attachment: 2012-02-04_16-29-29_482.jpg 983 KB (1 downloads)


> Whatcha wurkin on?

Blown front hub bearing on my Yukon. Two bolts seized, then stripped the hell out if the heads with a 24"breaker bar. Couldn't get any extraction tools in through the accesss holes. Went to cut them off, grinder died. Finally got the heads off, bolts still wouldn't break. Ended up welding 7/8" nuts to the remainder and got them to move after 3 hours of heating and wd40...


Mitchel book time on this job is 1.1. Hrs....been at it since 7am.


I'm also $200 deep in new tools....

[ATTACHED IMAGE - CLICK FOR FULL SIZE]

Attachment



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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: italie]
#275197 - 02/05/12 11:41 AM


> Blown front hub bearing on my Yukon. Two bolts seized, then stripped the hell out if the heads with a 24"breaker bar. Couldn't get any extraction tools in through the accesss holes. Went to cut them off, grinder died. Finally got the heads off, bolts still wouldn't break. Ended up welding 7/8" nuts to the remainder and got them to move after 3 hours of heating and wd40...
>
>
> Mitchel book time on this job is 1.1. Hrs....been at it since 7am.
>
>
> I'm also $200 deep in new tools....

Hmmm... sounds like you missed removing the cotter pin... take that out using just a toothpick, and the bolts effortlessly slide right out with just your fingers... forget to remove it, and yeah, what you did.







redk9258
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: italie]
#275202 - 02/05/12 02:09 PM


I just replaced the same thing on my Cavalier. I guess I was lucky the bolts came right out. Does your take a T-55 Torx? Did you have a decent bit before it got chewed up? I guess the extra salt and corrosion 300 miles north make a difference.

I remember trying to put front brakes on my Sister-in-laws Oldsmobile once. The rotors were scored so I had to take off the brackets that hold the calipers to get them off. One side came right off. The other side destroyed every tool I could throw at it. I finally borrowed a Snap On T-60 from a friend that worked a a GM dealer. He gave me the hint to apply heat. So I tried it and it worked! Come to find out, one side had red Loctite and the other didn't. The red Loctite (cannot remember the number) is supposed to be heated to 500 degrees before unscrewing. I wonder if your bearing hub didn't have some of that shit on it.



aavada
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: GatKong]
#275213 - 02/05/12 06:39 PM


> Hmmm... sounds like you missed removing the cotter pin...

If you're right the man is going to need some therapy.



redk9258
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: aavada]
#275215 - 02/05/12 06:44 PM


There ain't no fuckin' cotter pin.



Tomu Breidah
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: redk9258]
#275216 - 02/05/12 06:46 PM


> There ain't no fuckin' cotter pin.

Yeah. Not anymore.




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redk9258
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: italie]
#275218 - 02/05/12 06:53 PM


BTW, are those bolts exposed on the backside. Mine are.

I once broke an exhaust stud off while changing the muffler on a VW Bug (a real one with the air cooled engine in back). An older guy I knew took a fucking hand drill and started with a small bit and worked his way up to the size just a red cunt hair smaller than the hole the stud was screwed into. At this point he peeled the threads out like a spiral on a notebook. There was not one nick in the aluminum and the threads were perfect! He had one steady hand to do that! God rest his soul! I miss you Jack!



italieAdministrator
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: redk9258]
#275226 - 02/05/12 08:43 PM


> BTW, are those bolts exposed on the backside. Mine are.

Yeah, exposed but recessed. Attacked from both sides

> I once broke an exhaust stud off while changing the muffler on a VW Bug (a real one
> with the air cooled engine in back). An older guy I knew took a fucking hand drill
> and started with a small bit and worked his way up to the size just a red cunt hair
> smaller than the hole the stud was screwed into. At this point he peeled the threads
> out like a spiral on a notebook. There was not one nick in the aluminum and the
> threads were perfect! He had one steady hand to do that! God rest his soul! I miss
> you Jack!

You can always tell a good mechanic by the art they produce. Some guys just have the touch.



italieAdministrator
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: redk9258]
#275227 - 02/05/12 08:49 PM


> I just replaced the same thing on my Cavalier. I guess I was lucky the bolts came
> right out. Does your take a T-55 Torx? Did you have a decent bit before it got chewed
> up? I guess the extra salt and corrosion 300 miles north make a difference.

They calipers are T-50, but the hub bolts were 5/8" hex head, hardened bolt. Calipers were last touched by me, came off like they were new..(yes boys and girls, that caliper slide grease ~is~ impotant.)

> I remember trying to put front brakes on my Sister-in-laws Oldsmobile once. The
> rotors were scored so I had to take off the brackets that hold the calipers to get
> them off. One side came right off. The other side destroyed every tool I could throw
> at it. I finally borrowed a Snap On T-60 from a friend that worked a a GM dealer. He
> gave me the hint to apply heat. So I tried it and it worked! Come to find out, one
> side had red Loctite and the other didn't. The red Loctite (cannot remember the
> number) is supposed to be heated to 500 degrees before unscrewing. I wonder if your
> bearing hub didn't have some of that shit on it.

Possible. It would have taken me 45 minutes to get the hunk of metal surrounding the bolts hot enough with propane so that sounds about right. If that is the case I have another beef with GM....

Truck has 250K on it, probably been driving on a blown bearing at highway speed for a year. Could have just fused from friction heat too. At any rate, got 'em out, left side sounds beautiful. Bad part is that I can hear the right bearing making a little noise now. ;(

Edited by italie (02/05/12 09:00 PM)



italieAdministrator
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: Tomu Breidah]
#275228 - 02/05/12 08:51 PM


> > There ain't no fuckin' cotter pin.
>
> Yeah. Not anymore.

exactly...



//sorry, not that dense...
///(Move along Orc.)



GatKongModerator
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: italie]
#275230 - 02/05/12 09:15 PM









krick
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: italie]
#275231 - 02/05/12 09:28 PM


Would it have been easier/faster/cheaper to get a front hub from a junk yard?



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italieAdministrator
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: krick]
#275232 - 02/05/12 09:34 PM


> Would it have been easier/faster/cheaper to get a front hub from a junk yard?

I was installing an entirely new hub assembly, bearing and hub are 'one piece' units on the 4wd. Would have been the exact same task, just with older parts being thrown back in....

I could have gotten the entire suspension assembly from a bone yard, but I'd imagine anything I could get from them would have similar wear on the hub.



redk9258
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: italie]
#275249 - 02/05/12 11:11 PM


I think most cars since the late 80's use the sealed hub/bearing assemblies. No more cleaning the bearings in gasoline and repacking with wheel bearing grease. I actually used to enjoy doing that. Those were the ones with cotter pins.

The new way makes the hub/bearing more expensive, but rotors/drums are much cheaper. I guess it's a wash.



italieAdministrator
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: redk9258]
#275253 - 02/05/12 11:14 PM


> I think most cars since the late 80's use the sealed hub/bearing assemblies. No more
> cleaning the bearings in gasoline and repacking with wheel bearing grease. I actually
> used to enjoy doing that. Those were the ones with cotter pins.
>
> The new way makes the hub/bearing more expensive, but rotors/drums are much cheaper.
> I guess it's a wash.

Yeah, I remember the days of $80 rotors. $18-22 is much nicer. The only thing I dislike about this design (other than the small ass access holes you can't fit a normal bolt/socket through) is the wheel speed sensor being inclusive in the hub. I've had an ABS light on for a few months due to a gummed up sensor, and you have to remove the hub to change it out. (unless you have midget hands and are good with mirrors)



DMala
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Re: If you were a mechanical engineer for GM in the mid 90's.... new [Re: italie]
#275322 - 02/06/12 08:58 AM


> I'm also $200 deep in new tools....

This is partly why I don't do much of my own work anymore. I've got a case full of tools I've used exactly once.

Once I finally managed to find a shop that is neither crooked nor incompetent, and also happens to be two blocks away, I pretty much gave it up entirely. I don't miss it very much, especially when it's 20 or 95 degrees out.



Matty_
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Re: Beetle new [Re: redk9258]
#275328 - 02/06/12 12:13 PM Attachment: 4000.jpg 31 KB (1 downloads)


> I once broke an exhaust stud off while changing the muffler on a VW Bug (a real one
> with the air cooled engine in back).

Did it have a bonnet like this?

[ATTACHED IMAGE]

Attachment



redk9258
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Re: Beetle new [Re: Matty_]
#275331 - 02/06/12 12:50 PM


> > I once broke an exhaust stud off while changing the muffler on a VW Bug (a real one
> > with the air cooled engine in back).
>
> Did it have a bonnet like this?

No wonder I liked that car so much!



Vas Crabb
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Everyone loves a good Beetle bonnet new [Re: redk9258]
#275422 - 02/07/12 12:09 PM


> > > I once broke an exhaust stud off while changing the muffler on a VW Bug (a real one
> > > with the air cooled engine in back).
> >
> > Did it have a bonnet like this?
>
> No wonder I liked that car so much!

Funny thing, I only ever see girls driving classic Beetles these days.


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