italie |
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MAME owes italie many thank yous, hah
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Reged: 09/20/03
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Any garage door experts out there?
#257730 - 06/18/11 04:09 AM
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Putting in my door, 14'x8'. Instructions SUCK. Says I have two options for installing the track.
a) Using the offset holes for the rollers, and angling the track slightly away from the jamb.
b) Using the regular holes in the hinges and having the track parallel with the jamb.
What it fails to say is why I have this option, and why I should choose to use it. Any thoughts?
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| redk9258 |
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Regular
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Reged: 09/21/03
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Posts: 3968
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Loc: Troy, Illinois USA
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Re: Any garage door experts out there?
[Re: italie]
#257731 - 06/18/11 04:37 AM
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Fucked if I know. Just flip a coin and choose. Or, do one side one way and the other side the other :-)
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Re: Any garage door experts out there?
[Re: italie]
#257733 - 06/18/11 04:44 AM
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Um... One way is for use with an automatic opener, and the other is for manual? 
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| italie |
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MAME owes italie many thank yous, hah
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Re: Any garage door experts out there?
[Re: redk9258]
#257745 - 06/18/11 08:09 AM
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> Fucked if I know. Just flip a coin and choose. Or, do one side one way and the other
> side the other :-)
Funny that, I had the rollers set up in the offset mounts, and the track mounted parallel. Kinda what brought me to thinking about the situation when the door started angling into the jamb as I was putting panels up.
Anywhoo, walked over to both my neighbors houses to look at their garages. Wouldn't you know it, one had their track angled and the other had a parallel track. I'm choosing the parallel track, hopefully I won't regret the decision later.
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Re: Any garage door experts out there?
[Re: italie]
#257800 - 06/18/11 11:29 PM
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After thinking about it for a bit. There may be a couple of options here.
To set how high up the door will roll will depend on how far back the roller is from the door. Also it may depend on how 'flush' the door is with the front and how far up you want the door to go. I wouldnt let the door go any further than the pulley if you have one of the ones with the spring across the top. If you have the other style you should be ok with it being wherever. As when the door is up the door should be about level with those pulleys. Just depends on how far up you want the door to go.
Mine has a problem where the spring across the top slowly comes undone because the pulley wheel is too far forward. As there is a small space of time where there is no tension on it so it slowly comes undone. Now I have to get the thing re-tensioned (not a job for the faint of heart). I need to also put some stops in the glides to stop this from happening. Glad I just thought of it and the builder should have done it  Bet its in the instructions too *sigh*.
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| redk9258 |
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Re: Any garage door experts out there?
[Re: lharms]
#257811 - 06/19/11 02:22 AM
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> After thinking about it for a bit. There may be a couple of options here.
>
> To set how high up the door will roll will depend on how far back the roller is from
> the door. Also it may depend on how 'flush' the door is with the front and how far up
> you want the door to go. I wouldnt let the door go any further than the pulley if you
> have one of the ones with the spring across the top. If you have the other style you
> should be ok with it being wherever. As when the door is up the door should be about
> level with those pulleys. Just depends on how far up you want the door to go.
>
> Mine has a problem where the spring across the top slowly comes undone because the
> pulley wheel is too far forward. As there is a small space of time where there is no
> tension on it so it slowly comes undone. Now I have to get the thing re-tensioned
> (not a job for the faint of heart). I need to also put some stops in the glides to
> stop this from happening. Glad I just thought of it and the builder should have done
> it Bet its in the instructions too *sigh*.
Are you saying that when your door gets to the top there is no tension on the cables and they shift on the drums they wind on? Is the door balanced? With the opener disconnected it should stay right where you put it. If there is no tension at the top of the door travel, it isn't set correctly. The springs need to match the weight of the door. With the door at the bottom and vise-grips on the track to keep the door from going up as you tension the spring, the spring should be wound about 7 1/4 to 7 1/2 turns for a seven foot door. That's 1 turn per foot, plus a little to keep tension on the cable at the top of door travel. There is no reason to be afraid to do this. The spring is on a shaft and cannot jump out and bite you. Just make sure the winding bars are sized correctly and fit into the sockets correctly. I've replaced my springs twice in 16 years and I'm still alive today.
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Any garage door experts out there?
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[Re: 
Bet its in the instructions too *sigh*.
